The last supper
In november 2017 Pirmin Bertle has made the first ascent of (hold on for the extra long name) La Cène du (Roi) Lézard – The Last Supper of the Lizard (King) in Switzerland. It’s not yet clear if the name, tribute to Jim Morrison, has to be pronounced entirely or only in the favourite language. The route, with proposed grade of 9b, is located in the small crag of Jansegg at 1800m in the swiss Alps. As said the first ascent has benne completed in november 2017, but Pirmin waited the snow to melt for making the video (see below) and for reporting the news.
The last supper of the Lizard (King) is a link of different routes/moves: the first 8m of Le Roi Lézard (8c+), until a rather bad rest (8b/8b+ up to there). The route then turns right to the 8B boulder problem of the nearby Des scènes bizarres (9a+), to which then adds a single 8A+ dyno because of a broken hold.
Regarding the grade Pirmin Bertle writes in his blog that “The grade is another chapter of “Lost in Quotation” – kind of a tragic comedy that evolved over the past years. To give some orientation: When you on sight standard 9a you may climb this in one or two days – thus a logic, rather tough 9b. When you compare it to e.g. Via de la Capella (9b) – the same. But if you decline down from the hardest route(s) in the world, it might appear soft“.
And also adds:
“Well, anyway, I hope that everyone who still argues about grades for a route like this, in a place like this will be taken on the horns by an ibex or a chamois passing by. (Or he or she waits a bit, I just deciphered a potential new first part that should be tough 9a instead of 8b/8b+ – hopefully making it “barrier” ;))”.
The reference is obviously made to Adam Ondra, who, a few months ago, repeated the other Bertle’s 9b Meiose, downgrading it to 9a+. Pirmin with a vibrant and detailed response in his blog contested the downgrade and the downgrading trend which affects many hard routes repeated by Ondra. We guess that, as Pirmin says, this will possibly be another chapter of the downgrading saga.
Anyway here is the video. You can safely skip it to min 4:22